Model Van Bailey on queer fashion as a form of resistance

Rocio Sanchez: Hello, and welcome back to Transition of Style, the podcast all about queer fashion and business leaders who are making a change in the industry today. Today, we have Vanity here with us, but Vanity, you go by different names, right? Like, there’s V an, and then there’s, Dr. V an, right?

Van Bailey: Yeah, yeah. So, my full-time work, I go by Dr. V an Bailey. In the modeling and fashion world, go by Vanity, which is actually my legal birth name.

Rocio Sanchez: Okay, cool. Cool. And which one do you prefer?

Van Bailey: Vanity is awesome.

Rocio Sanchez: Vanity is awesome. Okay. Well, I’m happy to welcome Vanity to the podcast today to discuss modeling. We’ve had models before in the past. We’ve had, queer models talking about influencer lifestyle, but also, the industry as a whole and the experience of, like, coming out as yourself. We’ve had Abby Luke in the last season, who talked about her experience coming out as a bisexual woman, and navigating like, the New York City modeling scene. And so, I’m really happy to talk to Vanity today because I learned about  Vanity’s work, some roundabout way through one of our guests last year, which was, Teresa Morcho, from the Stud Model Project. So Vanity, is it right that you’re, part of the Stud Model Project?

Van Bailey: Y es, yes, yes, correct.

Rocio Sanchez: Okay, cool. Well, I would love to just, give you the floor for a little bit and have you introduce yourself. If you could say who you are, your pronouns, where you’re based.

Van Bailey: So what’s up, everybody? My name is Vanity. I go by they/them pronouns. I am from Charlotte, North Carolina, but I am currently based in Atlanta, Georgia. I am an international model, assigned to APL Management. As well as I’ve been doing this, for probably about 13 years now, in different realms of modeling, both print and doing runway as well. And I’mjust happy to be talking to you all about what that journey has looked like for me.

Rocio Sanchez: Let’s start at the beginning, right? Usually people have these very personal stories, some people it’s very strictly business from the start, but usually people in, in these conversations that I have in this podcast are very much like, no. Typically it’s like there is a problem that rarely people are talking about. And I am either filling it or I’m finding people to fill it. So I’d love to hear your particular experience, starting out. What’s your queer journey at first and, how that eventually led to your modeling career.

Van Bailey: Absolutely. So, I came out when I was super young. I was around 13, 14 years old. And I really began understanding myself as a queer person, really based upon style and how people commented on how I dressed. I didn’t really understand myself as like, in terms of sexuality or gender or things like that, but there was always comments around me particularly liking masculine fashion. And dressing up as a masculine person. And at the time, you know, this is for me, pre-physical transition. And so many people were commenting on it based upon what they felt like, you know, I should or should not be wearing. But I always felt comfortable in masculine clothes. And I felt like it was kind of the best way to express my own kind of sense of style and self. And really, I kind of replicated after my father, who was an entertainer himself. He was a D. J. And, you know, I just thought that he had really, really dope fashion growing up. You know, when I got to college and I first started kind of understanding myself as a trans person, after watching the film The Aggressives, you know, I really began to figure out that, like, style was a way to like, not only make my mark, but also to, like, create conversations with people. For me, one of the first kind of images I remember seeing, of myself was, an organization called Brooklyn Boyhood. Which was around like 2009. They were releasing these calendars. and it was the first time that I had seen Black or Brown people in print who were queer. And it was, it incredibly just not only fascinating but like encouraging to see that.

Van Bailey: Once I linked up, I became a part of this organization called the Brown Boy Project. And in my cohort, the Brown Boy Project mostly focuses on masculine of center people. They bring them together really around kind of this feminist agenda to make the world better for women and girls. And that was the first time I was in a space with other masculine-identified people in that way. And I met somebody physically from the Brooklyn Boyhood. and that’s really kind of where the magic began to happen. They brought me on as a collective member, eventually after doing a lot of volunteer work with them. And I was like, I would really love to style one of the calendars. And that’s really, how I got to introduced to really thinking about queer style as a stylist first. It was interesting to like, dress other people and them to feel joy around it, particularly masculine identified queer and trans people.

Van Bailey: And then one year, they were like, yeah, you should probably model this year. And I was like, model?! I never really thought about modeling and being in front of the camera in that way. And so, you know, they gave me an opportunity to model in one of the calendars. And from there, I was just like, okay, I think I can, I can actually do this. And that’s where more opportunities just came up to partner with organizations like Dapper Q and help them produce a runway show. So, it kind launched from like, almost like happenstance and me feeling like, wow, there just needs to be more space for queer and trans folks of color to be in fashion. And that’s how it kind of launched for me.

Rocio Sanchez: Wow. Wow. Thank you for sharing that. I was literally going to ask, like, what was that first experience that you had, where you felt immediately that shift of I’m accepted for being queer. But it turns out that it was just kind of from the beginning, it was always there. And that’s, quite rare, in the fashion industry in itself. I’m curious to, to know if that, organization is still around?

Van Bailey: Yeah. Brooklyn Boyhood, you know, as a collective that still exists. Yeah. It still exists. And, whole calendars got started because it was a way to fund parties that we were throwing. Because you can’t do that for free. And so, you know, we saw that it was a way for not only for us to get visibility out there, because this was before Instagram, right?  So having images. readily available of like queer and trans black and brown people wasn’t really heard of outside of like Tumblr and we had a space on Tumblr as well. It was just really important for us to generate, visibly like who we were. In terms of like not only a brand, but like who we were representing in terms of queer and trans Black and Brown masculine of center people. You know, for me it was like, if not us, then who? Because every time we picked up a magazine or looked on TV , there were images of Black and Brown, queer and trans masculine of center people. And displaying them in photography and like, just really beautiful ways. And, that was, you know, one of the 1st times we got to work with queer and trans Black and Brown photographers, right? And visual archivist and digital curators and folks like that. Folks like Texas Isaiah, who’s amazing, right? And so, like, for us, it was really important to create that space because we didn’t see it.

Rocio Sanchez: Yeah. Yeah. that’s just genuinely such a theme in all like queer stories, whether it’s in this podcast or like just there in the world. The stories being told. and there’s so many ways to tell a story, whether that’s like a calendar or organizing parties and stuff like that. The story is community, the story is getting together and creating that environment. I imagined that, people listening to this, I’m always coming to the point of like, how could people listening, who may be like, I want to be a model. Like how could they get started? What, questions do you think they should ask themselves? What steps they should take for that? I know it’s kind of a loaded question, but I wonder through all your 13 years of experience, if you have something for them.

Van Bailey: Yeah, I would say, you know, be relentless about, like, creating your portfolio. I think it’s really important to have a strong portfolio and working with photographers to build that up, I think is really important. We’re in a digital age. And so being able to consistently put out images of yourself. I think it’s really, really important. And then working with photographers who also have connections within the industry who are willing to reshare your work, I think is really important to. I would also say is like, try to figure out what your niche is, right? Like, what gap are you filling? For me, I knew that it was really important to visibly put out there and consistently say that I am a person of size. I am a Black trans person, and I do not see enough of those images in the media. And so for me, it was really important to understand what gap I’m filling in the industry. So people can understand that you bring a certain nuance, or you bring something different to their brand. But the consistency is really important, right? And not being afraid to, like, get your picture taken. Trying different poses, trying different things, like, whether it’s going to be commercial or lifestyle or different things. So you can just try out different, different aspects. And I would also say, like, joining creative agencies, who are building things like Stud Model Project is an example of that, Or working with organizations like Dapper Q, who does amazing work as well. Put yourself out there in terms of the auditions. Dapper Q does a New York fashion show every year. Audition for it, right? Put yourself out there. So I think it’s really important to like, be consistent when it comes to that.

Van Bailey: And once you build up a portfolio, you can then shop it around to different agencies. That’s what I did. I was just very relentless and tagging agencies that I knew that I was interested in, on my photos, like, please see me, please, please see me. Till eventually, you know, I was able to catch the eye of an agency that’s actually based in Amsterdam, to say, Hey, you know, we think that you fill a particular niche and we’d like to work with you. But the consistency working with photographers and putting your images out there and not being afraid to take that risk, I think is really important.

Rocio Sanchez: So Stud Model Project, if you could tell us a little bit more about like how did that come about? I imagine it was organic, cause now you’re based in A TL, Atlanta and Stud Model Project is based in Atlanta, though they have opened up in like New York, but how did you meet Teresa? Did you meet Teresa? Like, how was it?

Van Bailey: Yeah, yeah, Teresa and I have met several times, and I learned about Stud Model Project when I was actually living in the D.C. area. And, you know, for me, I thought it was a, an amazing opportunity to get images out there that were professionally done. And to also link up with an agency that understood the power and importance of trans people in multimedia and in fashion spaces. And I felt like Teresa and the Stud Model Project were unapologetically putting out those images. And they were quality images. There was always, you know, a sense of, I think of professionalism that I appreciated around Stud Model Project. And the ability to be able to have consistent access to work. I think was important too. Right? So for me, my portfolio would not be at the place that it’s in without working with the Stud Model Project. Being able to do different themes or have different aspects of modeling, whether that’s editorial or doing lifestyle things or whatever. Right? And that was the 1st time that, like, I had worked with somebody that was coaching me around poses around.

Van Bailey: Thinking about myself in terms of like my own brand. That’s something I definitely appreciate about Teresa and the Stud Model Project and them just being really unapologetic around working with people who are queer and trans, and masculinity of center and saying, okay, y’all should be in the industry as well. And so, that’s something that I’m really excited about and continue to be excited about. I actually have a photo shoot with them, this upcoming Sunday. So I’m looking forward to that as well.

Rocio Sanchez: You’re like reminding yourself of all the reasons why you love working with them. And it’s just really cool. Like, I think what you were saying earlier, when you were giving your advice about being relentless and tapping into organizations that provide you this training or, communities like Stud Model Project. You’re talking about resourcefulness and, you know, unfortunately for a lot of queer folks out there who are just like, who might feel like they’re the only ones in their town that might be queer or something like that. They’re very closeted. They might feel like, well, what, resource do I have? Right? So, things like Stud Model Project, even going to, you know, a drag show, low key, and experiencing those things, those things open up your world and see what’s possible, you know?

Rocio Sanchez: And also, answer the question of like, didn’t see this before and somebody’s doing it now and can I be a part of it? And the answer is yes. So part of it is looking, finding it, and if you can’t find it, make it. But this is all very simplified. but, you speak to the resourcefulness that, growing out there in our community. I would love to talk more about just kind of what’s next. I want to shift more into like the business aspect, right? So right now you, you know, you’re signed with APL, we talked Stud Model Project and what they provide to you. Professional development, career development. How would you go about after you’ve broken into the industry, what’s next for you, for the queer fashion. For you V anity, or if you’re giving advice to somebody that’s been doing this for five years versus you doing it for 13 years. They’re saying, how do I address the next five years of my career?

Van Bailey: Yeah. I would say, you know, build your brand and understand once again, what gap you’re feeling in terms of your niche. Right?So one of the things that is really important for me is, I utilize my educational training, with having a doctorate and things like that. And the ability to kind of build up my personal brand. When it comes to speaking about the importance of inclusivity in fashion. And so I am also a consultant when it comes to going to brands and talking to them about the importance of having queer and trans people in their spaces. And one of the talks that I give, that I go around and speak about is fashion as a form of resistance.

Van Bailey: And, why that’s important to me is understanding that people talk about kind of this like diversity and inclusion, that we’re seeing in the fashion industry and having more bodies and da da da da da. But for me, I’m like, you know, queer and trans people have always been at the forefront. Particularly Black and Brown folks of the fashion industry. And we have always been, in spaces utilizing fashion as a form of either showing a sense of resistance or showing our political power in spaces, right? Y ou look at like how Frida used to dress a little bit more masculine, or you look at how people specifically showed up in the gay liberation movement or civil rights movement using, clothing to purposely communicate a message, right? And I think that that goes the same, you know, for people currently. And, for me, I, feel like it’s important to get that message out there, to have folks understand that, having as much diversity when it comes to body size for your brand only makes your brand better. And we’ve seen that in brands like Fenty, right?

Van Bailey: Where, you know, that’s been their whole like spiel, right? And so I think for me, it’s been really critical, to get that messaging out there so we can create more spaces for people to see themselves in the fashion industry. Not just behind the scenes because we’ve been there, but I’m talking about, like, in print. On the runway and things like that. Visibly, And so I think that that’s really critical. So people can actually see themselves. Because we’re buying the clothes already. So why, why wouldn’t we see ourselves represented, as models for those different brands?

Rocio Sanchez: Yeah, totally. And I say visibly just because like, oh yeah, like, queer people have been on the runway. We just didn’t talk about it or they were very, very, very, very careful for their own career trajectory and their own, like, physical safety. They didn’t come out. So, you were saying about how, you know, fashion is a form of resistance and how you’re really dedicating yourself to this, theme. But not only just theme, like, that’s the theme of your, like, whole, movement. But just spreading the word. I think that it just also goes to show how like free you are to actually speak about that. Cause even if you are to be like hardcore modeling and stuff, like, it just feels like, you know, you kind of have to do it the mainstream way, right? Like, I mean, I’m thinking this is like a totally different kind of industry within the fashion industry, but I’m talking about like Bella Hadid and like Gigi Hadid and like that level it’s just a different like the modeling industry. And I just feel like they’re talking about it the same way, you know, and you’re coming from like an academic perspective. And what I mean to say by that is that you’ve chosen that this is going to be what you talk about. And there are some other people who would be like, nah, I’m just going to hustle and work, work, work.  And I just happen to be queer, that’s cool. I’m not, ashamed about it, but I could tell that you’re very like, calm about it. You’re like, I’m going to talk about this and it’s real it speaks to me that way. It speaks to my, like inner activists, like on the street a little bit.

Rocio Sanchez: I feel like in this business world, we really can get, just sucked into the hustle culture, of course. I’m not the first to talk about that. But I don’t know, the way that you speak about it really, like, speaks to me. I’m like, okay, we need more of that.

Van Bailey: Yeah, absolutely. Absolutely. And I want to shout out like, you know, Dapper Q. That really, I remember they gave me really my first opportunity to write about it. They had a blog. and I-

Rocio Sanchez: Mhm. They still have a blog, I think.

Van Bailey: Yeah, yeah, so for me, I was able to, like, contribute to their blog. And I remember, I think this was back in 2015. I called out ASOS directly and was like, Hey, ASOS, what’s going on with your models? Why do y’all go up to a size 3X, but I can’t find any other models on your web page that are size 3X. And next thing you know, ASOS begins to kind of get with the program and they start to shift and begin to have more models of size and diversity and things like that.[00:19:17] We have to call these organizations and these brands out to say, how am I going to know what’s possible, if I don’t know what’s possible? You literally are not showing me. So I think it’s important for us to continuously push these brands who are saying that they’re diverse, but then you go on their websites and you don’t see any images that might possibly look like you.

Rocio Sanchez: Right, right, yeah, there’s still a lot to be done. And it, it kind of sucks that, like, we’re the ones doing a lot of like the heavy lifting, you know. The queer folks are the ones that are really putting so much effort into it. But way earlier, you were like, if not us, then who? There’s something to be said there. So you spoke about what’s, next for somebody that’s like, trying to focus in the next five years of their career after they’ve finished the first five years. What about right now? What do you think the industry as a whole, like this kind of queer modeling world, what’s next for us?

Van Bailey: Yeah, I mean, I see more boutique agencies coming up that are similar to like APL. Who are no longer relying on kind of these larger agencies to represent queer and trans people. I think that, there has been enough success to see that. Having diversity within the modeling industry is really critical important and lucrative and successful that we’re no longer looking to these larger agencies to represent us. And so I think that there is going to be more of that that comes up. I think that there’s going to be just as much. A lot more generated of like, for us by us, similar to like Dapper Q and Stud Model Project. You’re going to see more people saying, okay, we got this. We’re going to do it ourselves. We’re going to create and generate images ourselves. We’re going to create our own studios. We’re going to have our own agencies. And I think that that’s a shift for people, right? Because they used to having these larger agencies really control who was going to be on the runway. And we’re going to see more creative shows that come out of that, more collaborations with big brands, right? The fact that Dapper Q was able to link up with Target and do a fashion show for queer and trans youth. We’re going to see more and more of that happening because people are realizing that to have that outdated mentality is a bad business model. Right? So excited to continuously see people creating their own, and finding ways for us to put our own images out there and create our own runway spaces. And, I love seeing that. And I’ve been able to see it internationally. I’m excited to continuously see that growth.

Rocio Sanchez: I’m excited too. Especially internationally, definitely want to see more, more of it, visibly. Thank you so much for sharing your story, for sharing, advice and your insights. Where can people find you for after the interview?

Van Bailey: Absolutely. Folks can find me at @drvanbailey on Instagram, and on Tik Tok, Doctor Handsome. And of course, Dr. V an Bailey on LinkedIn, if people are looking for professional connections.

Rocio Sanchez: Well, thank you so much for joining and taking the time out of your day and I will see you around, okay?

Van Bailey: All right. See you later.

Rocio Sanchez: Transition of Style is brought to you by FC Podcasts, a division of Fashion Consort. Learn more about how FC Podcasts can help you with podcasting, from strategy and creation to production and marketing at fcpodcasts.com. That’s fcpodcasts.com. Thank you FC Podcasts, for making Transition of Style possible. Now, back to the show.

Rocio Sanchez: Welcome back to Transition of Style. It’s time for the case study portion of our episode. I’m Rocio Sanchez, and today we’ll be diving into the journey of Vanity Bailey, an international model, consultant, and advocate for queer and trans representation in fashion. Here are 3 takeaways from their story that you can apply to your own entrepreneurial and creative journey.

Rocio Sanchez: Firstly, identify and fill a niche. Vanity emphasized the importance of identifying what gap you are filling in the industry. For them, it was important to consistently represent as a Black plus-sized trans person in fashion, a perspective often overlooked. By focusing on what was missing in the industry, they were able to distinguish themselves and create new opportunities. What you can take from this is to think about what unique qualities you bring to your industry. Identify what’s lacking in your field and position yourself as the solution. Whether it’s representation, innovation, or a fresh approach, find that gap and build your brand around it.

Rocio Sanchez: Secondly, be relentless about building your portfolio. Vanity’s modeling career grew through persistence and resourcefulness. They worked with photographers to build a strong portfolio, continuously putting their work out there, even tagging agencies directly to gain visibility. Their persistence paid off when they eventually signed to an agency in Amsterdam. So build a strong, diverse portfolio that showcases your skills and identity. Consistently create content, collaborate with photographers or other creatives, and don’t be afraid to promote yourself. Tag relevant brands or agencies and be relentless in getting your work seen by the right people.

Rocio Sanchez: Lastly, leverage community-based organizations. Vanity’s career took off when they connected with organizations like Brooklyn Boyhood, and the Stud Model Project. These organizations not only help them develop professionally, but also provided access to resources and networks that might have been otherwise out of reach. So, connect with community-based organizations that align with your identities and goals. These organizations can provide invaluable opportunities, from networking to professional development, and help you find like-minded collaborators. Whether it’s a modeling collective, a queer business network, or a local advocacy group, these communities can propel your career forward.

Rocio Sanchez: Vanity Bailey’s journey from a stylist to an international model and consultant shows the power of identifying a niche, being relentless in self-promotion and leveraging community-based organizations. Whether you’re starting out or looking to elevate your career, these strategies can help you break through barriers and create new opportunities. Be persistent, authentic, and proactive in seeking spaces that reflect and celebrate your identity.

Rocio Sanchez: Thank you so much for listening to Transition of Style. Please if you’re interested follow us on Instagram at @TransitionofStyle and subscribe to our newsletter at TransitionofStyle.com. See you next time.